In search of snow

Our last day in Europe, after six weeks in search of snow was spent in Belgrade. We had been travelling on our Eurail Global Pass throughout Europe, visiting Christmas markets, enjoying a Rhine River cruise and wishing and hoping for a white Christmas. We had left behind the hot Australian summer and more than anything we wanted was to see it snow.

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We had experienced some chilly weather along the way which saw us rugged up with our thermals, scarves and gloves more than once. But we had not seen any snow 🙁 Starting off in Paris in November, it was cold, but very sunny most days. We then travelled to Brussels, Bruges, Antwerp, Luxembourg, Amsterdam, Cologne and Frankfurt. All pretty, cold and had a few days of light rain here and there, but still no show. In Frankfurt we were greeted with a bright, sunny room and told they were having the hottest winter in 100 years, which was great, but not what we wanted to hear. The final day in Frankfurt was very foggy as we made our way with Avalon Waterways along the Rhine River to Heidelberg, Mannheim, Speyer, Strasbourg, Obernai, Breisach, a Black Forest tour and onto Colmar.

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We visited some beautiful places, fortified walled towns, half timbered houses and enjoyed delicious French pastries, drank lots of warming gluhwein, and ate stolen. We sipped wines in a typical Alsation wine cellar and drove through the cold but very picturesque Black Forest to visit an authentic sixth generation Cuckoo clock maker at work. There we sipped cherry wine, ate Black Forest cake and watched the wonderful craft of wood carving. Our final stop on the cruise was Basel. Finally in Switzerland we were convinced we would experience a winter wonderland. But no. From Basel we ventured to Berne and Zurich, Lucerne and Chur where we boarded the famous Bernina Express.  We thought this would be a sure thing to see lots of fluffy white snow capped mountains, but even the ski slopes we passed had barely any snow and they were concerned to keep their tourism alive during the unseasonally warm winter.

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From Tirano we travelled to Milan for an overnight stopover and onto Salzburg via Innsbruck. Despite the lack of snow in the hills of Austria we weren’t let down with lots of fun on a Sound of Music tour. After a few days in Salzburg it was onto Ljubljana for a few days, travelling onto Vienna where we would spend Christmas. We were told our hopes for a White Christmas were doubtful and although quite cold, there was no forecast for snow. We made our way to Prague and then Budapest via Bratislava in time for a low of -11c for New Year’s Eve. It was bitterly cold there, but you guessed it, no snow.

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Our final stop was a quick stopover in Belgrade before flying back home to warm and sunny Perth. The journey from Budapest to Belgrade was an exhausting eight hour train trip, with no toilets onboard and we were not permitted to get off the train at the border checkpoint. Finally, just on dusk we arrived at Novi Beograd station tired and showing signs of forty days of travel having taken it’s toll. We had checked our phone for the forecast and were clearly not getting our hopes up, despite it showing -16c there was only a 30% chance of snow.

This was our best odds in the last six weeks. As we were approaching the station we could see what we later learnt was a very light snow flurry. We were in oblivion at first, seeing what we first thought was dust blowing about. But this soon turned to excitement, much to the locals’ amusement. We were in our element to see our closest chance of real snow before we depart Europe to return to the heat of Australian summer. I’d seen snow on the ground twice before, but I’d never seen it snow. It was so beautiful and amazing, I felt like a child exploding with excitement. After checking into the Courtyard by Marriott hotel we wandered around for an hour or so in the very light flurry, which was barely more than very light rain. But we were content. We had seen it snow. We went back to the hotel restaurant and had a wonderful meal. Was it the Beef Bourguignon warming me with each bite as we sat and watched the weather outside? No, it was that we had finally fulfilled our desire to see it snow, as light as it was, we were satisfied to have finally, on our last night, seen a little snow falling.

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Next morning we were super excited, as I pulled back the curtains we were amazed at what we saw. The pavements were white, the streets covered in dirty sludge, we had woken to a snow shower. The flurry from last night continued through the night and had got a little heavier.

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Quickly we made our way outside, donning our heavy winter jacket, wool lined boots, gloves, etc. It was beautiful, white fluffy snow and such a pretty sight and a moment we will never forget. The hotel staff were scattering salt to melt the snow, the snow trucks were going along the streets clearing the snow and the people were scarce. Except for us. We were in winter wonderland, mesmerized by the vision of pure white snow. It was my first time seeing the little flakes floating down. It was really cold outside, every step I took I was crunching the snow on the pavement and feeling the sharp little flakes hitting my cheeks.  After six weeks, many in negative degrees, temperatures I had never experienced before, we were finally rewarded with snow.

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It was a great opportunity to wander around, appreciate the beauty of snow and take some photos. Everything was covered in white flakes, it was so beautiful and definitely a highlight for us and a moment in time we will remember forever. For an Australian in my 50’s who has never seen it snow before, this trip to Belgrade will be an experience of a lifetime. Steve wandered around for about four hours, rekindling his British childhood. Belgrade was simply breathtaking and our wish had been granted, just hours before we were due to depart.

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I have to say winter in Europe is beautiful, but when it snowed in Belgrade it was truly magical. If you would like some travel tips on Vienna in winter check out this travel blogger’s post.

Seeing it snow for the first time was a really awesome experience. Have you seen it snow? What was your first time like?

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27 Responses

  1. Leah says:

    Your trip sounds like an exciting adventure. I’m so glad you go to taste Black Forest cake! Visiting a sixth generation clock maker sounds like such a fantastic and unique experience. The region has a wonderful history. Glad you go to finally experience snow (and didn’t have to shovel any of it!)!

  2. Joey says:

    Glad you got the opportunity to see snow … El Nino was pretty tricky over the past year!
    Joey recently posted…Set Sail on the Adventure of a LifetimeMy Profile

  3. Linda Bibb says:

    I really enjoyed your story. It’s wonderful how we can still be filled with wonder when we are decades old. I’ll never forget being with an Australian friend as he saw snow fall for the first time. “Is this snow?” he asked, and his eyes grew wide when I nodded. It was such a special experience for me.
    Linda Bibb recently posted…Colorful Colonial Cartagena Awaits YouMy Profile

  4. Paula Morgan says:

    You guys look so happy on that train it makes me want to grab my husband and leave today! Love Eastern Europe – people who leave it off their itineraries are really missing out hey.

  5. Arlette says:

    I like this web site it’s a master piece! Glad I found this
    on google.
    Arlette recently posted…ArletteMy Profile

  6. I’m so glad you finally got some snow! We live in Bavaria and would expect much more snow then we ever get. It’s very rare before January for our area. It sounds like you had one heck of an amazing trip!
    Jim ~ ReflectionsEnroute recently posted…Experiencing Eastern EuropeMy Profile

  7. Lolo says:

    Yes Winter 2016 was really quite mild. I always hope for a white Christmas, but this is highly unusual here. We were a smidge lucky though because on NYE we were in Prague and shortly before midnight, before the fireworks, it started to snow! It was windy and cold, but amazing! By morning, there was a blanket of snow…only we had to leave 🙁 #TheWeeklyPostcard

  8. liz says:

    There are few things I love more than snow – it makes me feel like a kid again as we used to have snow most winters!! How lucky you were to see it snow for the first time too – its a magical sight isn’t it!! Thanks for sharing your memories with us!!
    liz recently posted…Siena Palio – which contradas are racing on 2nd July 2016?My Profile

  9. We always seem to see snow when we least expect it. The most magical experience for us was in Nth America where there was an early snow fall while the fall colours were still at their peak. The combination of fall colours and snow was something I will never forget.
    Lyn aka The Travelling Lindfields recently posted…Mount Vernon – George Washington’s home.My Profile

  10. It’s funny as here in Europe, we’re always longing for sunshine and you were longing for snow! I’m glad that your wish came true at the last minute
    Suze – Luxury Columnist recently posted…Taking an Edible Vacation with Christabel’s and TablMy Profile

  11. Dean says:

    Well Lyn, you managed one more day of snow than we did on our hunt for a White Christmas. It looked spectacular too.
    Dean recently posted…Traveling kids grow up too fastMy Profile

  12. Ahila says:

    I’m glad you experienced snow fall on this trip before your return to Australia. I remember very well the excitement I felt when I experienced my first snow fall in Sweden. #TheWeeklyPostcard

  13. How wonderful that it snowed on your last day, that’s magical! Last winter was so warm in Europe it was quite bizarre. And right now it’s colder where my parents live in south England than it was at Christmas – madness!! I love a white Christmas but I can’t even remember when I last had one, they’re pretty rare in most of Europe. It occasionally snows on the French Riviera where I live ad that’s totally magical because it’s so unexpected and rare. Thanks for hosting.
    Phoebe – Lou Messugo recently posted…All About France #17My Profile

  14. Anda says:

    I can understand your quest for snow, Lyn. I grew up in a country that had harsh winters and although I don’t miss the snow that much, once in a while I love seeing and feeling it. Truth is that Christmas doesn’t feel like Christmas without snow and I’ll have to say that you were kind of unlucky this past winter. Usually you don’t have to chase the snow so much in Europe. Well, at least you’ve got to see a little of it . Your beautiful pictures caught the winter atmosphere very nicely.
    Anda recently posted…The Weekly Postcard: Château de Chaumont-sur-LoireMy Profile

  15. I agree, there’s nothing like the first time. My first time seeing it snow was somewhere in Switzerland (I can’t even tell you where, unfortunately) and it was amazing. I’d read about it, watched moves with scenes of falling snow, etc. but nothing compares to standing there and feeling the snowflakes actually fall on you, while your face starts turning numb because it’s so cold.

    I’ve heard that no two snowflakes are alike but honestly, they’re so small I can’t even tell. Plus they melt when I try to get a closer look! That said, I think there will always be something magical about falling snow for me no matter how many times I see it. Growing up in Singapore, where we have two seasons – hot and hotter – will do that to you. 🙂
    Michelle | michwanderlust recently posted…Naples National Archaeological Museum: Art from AntiquityMy Profile

  16. Marcia says:

    I’m smiling as I read this. Spoken like someone who’s never had to deal with snow, not really. (My nephew came from Florida last Christmas just to see the snow but it didn’t snow until after he left.)
    Granted, the first time is always magical, even the first time for the season. But when you get day after day of snow or amounts in the double digits, you won’t be so thrilled as that snow has to be cleared before it turns to ice and makes a walk to the car, or the bus/subway treacherous.
    Here in New York, if you’re a homeowner you not only have to clear your driveway but the sidewalk as well. Lots of work if you have a long driveway or don’t have a snow blower. But I agree, that first snow is beautiful so I’m glad you were rewarded with seeing some before you left. Would you believe that no two snowflakes are alike?

  17. You guys had an amazing itinerary/trip! Did you do a post on it? You should (with a good vertical image andI’ll) help share it!
    Diana Elle, Travel Tuesday Co-Host recently posted…The Best of Travel TuesdayMy Profile

  18. I’m happy you got to see the snow:) I’m very lucky actually because I live at the seaside and yet I can get to snowy parts in less than 30 mins during winter:) Well, that’s Croatia:) #travel tuesday
    Tanja (the Red phone box travels) recently posted…Unexpected places (June Travel Link Up)My Profile

  19. So glad you found snow!! Totally over snow, this winter in Boston wasn’t too bad but the one before that was insane! But it is beautiful when it is first falling 🙂

  20. That’s quite some quest for snow! I hate to admit it, but I’m not a big fan of snow as being a Brit we get it fairly often. However, it does look absolutely beautiful in Belgrade and I’m really glad you got to see your snow at last 🙂
    Rachel ¦¦ A Nesting Nomad recently posted…Tour our AirBnb villa with a view in Oia, SantoriniMy Profile

  21. Sadie says:

    Such beautiful photos! Especially of one of my favorite places, Budapest!

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