Discovering the charms of Montmartre and beyond

Discovering the charms of Montmartre and beyond on foot is the best way to come across hidden gems and jaw dropping views. Nestled in the heart of Paris, Montmartre is a neighbourhood that captures the hearts of travellers, bohemians, and wanderers. This picturesque hilltop area is a place of cobblestoned streets, quaint cafes, and is just perfect for leisurely strolls. Though still retaining its artistic charm, this area once home to painters Renoir, Picasso, Monet, Matisse, and Van Gogh, is today mostly inhabited by hordes of tourists. The charm of Montmartre has never faded and many flock to the most famous Parisian district to explore notable attractions like the iconic Sacré-Cœur Basilica, the second most visited monument in Paris. But we prefer to embark on aimless yet purposeful wander as we meander through the quintessential Parisian quarter.

It is easy in Montmartre to become a flâneur, one who wanders observing society. To simply saunter, like a connoisseur of the streets, strolling the boulevards and parks, and lounging in cafés. The art of flaneur is like gastronomy of the eye, a way of understanding the landscape, truly taking in the urban experience. We are strollers of city streets, away from home, yet at home anywhere. We put down the map, get lost and embrace the unexpected and admire the small details in architecture.

Our journey through Montmartre begins along Rue Caulaincourt where we stop at the Belle Époque Boulangerie, Boris du Moulin de la Galette. I am in awe as I step inside the charming pâtisserie that is simply picture perfect. I mean, have you ever seen a boulangerie with a chandelier hanging from a frescoe painted ceiling, and walls of blue and white tiles with a quaint tile frieze? When I first saw a glimpse of this picturesque shop in a scene from Julie & Julia where Meryl Streep plays Julia Child’s, I just knew I had to come here. Built in 1900 and now classified a historical monument, the classic appeal of the exterior draws you in and the gorgeous details of the three corner façade with old style gold letter writing gives an authentic appeal. The pastries have as much charm as the décor but today I will eat the quintessential croissant for my breakfast, like the French do, and as expected it is without fault, light, buttery and perfectly flaky.

Continuing our walk, we find ourselves at Square Suzanne Buisson, which is quite a little hidden gem where you’ll find a statue of the headless Saint Denis, the first bishop of Paris. In 272 AD when Paris was still a Roman city and Christians were persecuted, Saint Denis was captured and decapitated. Legend has it, he picked up his head and walked while preaching about repentance. He stopped along the way at a fountain to clean his head, this fountain marks the very spot. And that is how Montmartre got it’s name, it means “Mountain of the Martyr”.

The next stop is Au Marché de la Butte, a cute little grocery store located a short stroll from the Abbesses Metro Station. Au Marché is a small neighbourhood grocer selling fruits, vegetables, and grocery items. Several scenes from the movie Amélie were filmed there and the owner has preserved this iconic store.

If there’s one area in Paris I can’t get enough of, its Montmartre, and Place des Abbesses is typical of the Montmartre atmosphere. This charming quarter has a village charm, Wallace fountain, plane trees, Art Nouveau Metro station and church, all in a lively square. The area is where the heart of Montmartre beats, full of bustling sidewalk cafes, and vintage boutiques, and passersby can sometimes catch an impromptu street performer adding to the vibrant ambience. This pretty square is the epitome of Paris with its cobblestone streets,  old fashioned carousel, newspaper kiosk and lamp posts making the perfect place to spend a few minutes people watching or listening to a busker play his accordion.

One square not to miss is Square Jehan Rictus, home of Mur des Je t’aime, the I love you wall. After all, Paris is the city of love. You will find a 4m high wall with more than 600 tiles dedicated to love. The words ‘I love you’ are written in 300 different languages so it may take a while to find them written in your local language.

Saint-Jean de Montmartre Church is a lesser known but extraordinary church in Montmartre, one of the few Parisian churches in Art Nouveau style. Known as ‘Our Lady of the Bricks’ honouring its brick façade as it is less common for a church to be made of bricks in Paris. Built in 1904, the undulating curves, intricate stained glass, and artistic embellishments make this church a true artistic treasure. Step inside and admire the exquisite stained glass windows and innovative design that blends Gothic and Art Deco styles. The play of light and colour create an ethereal ambiance within making this the perfect place to light a candle, inviting contemplation and tranquillity.

Leaving the 18th Arrondissement heading west we are greeted by two of the most charming little features in the landscapes around Paris which can be seen side by side in the beautiful Boulevard des Batignolles. The Rome Metro station is adorned with a Guimard entrance. Many of these cast iron Art Nouveau style entrances to underground stations have now been demolished but this one at Rome Station was registered a historic monument in 2016. Another structure facing demise around Paris is the iconic dark green newspaper kiosk.

These are the backdrop that draws us to the most outstanding local landmark dating back to 1844 combining Romanesque and Renaissance elements in a 100 metre long building. Lycée Chaptal, a large secondary college was founded for pupils with an expectation to pursue a future in commerce or manufacturing. The complex, arranged round a court has the most detailed façade with carved reliefs representing Trade, Industry, Science and Art, and the main entrance features a carved bust of Athena, the Greek Goddess of Wisdom. While students inside are pursuing knowledge, we look at the historic, imposing walls and the beautiful architecture. The elegant columns and arched doorways are a testament to the bygone era when scholars gathered here to shape their futures.

Our journey takes us to Parc Monceau, a serene oasis and tranquil haven in the heart of the city. A romantic park that once inspired countless writers and artists, today provides respite from the city’s hustle and bustle. Originally designed in the 18th century, this meticulously designed 20 acre green space is the perfect spot for a picnic or moment of contemplation. As soon as we approach the charming rotunda the allure of Parc Monceau beckons. Entering through the wrought iron gates, we are immediately embraced by the lush greenery, ornate bridges, meandering pathways, and manicured gardens that define the park’s landscape. We find solace and beauty in this urban jungle and sit for a peaceful moment by the pond before enjoying the beauty of the whimsical statues. The park invites you to lose track of time as your savour the beauty of nature amongst the variety of flora, including rose gardens, and towering chestnut trees. Parc Monceau is a place where the past and present blend seamlessly and there is harmony between nature and design with tranquil ponds inhabited by graceful swans. In what was once a meeting place for the city’s elite, its elegance remains captivating to this day, providing a glimpse into Parisian leisure surrounded by Haussmannian architecture.

 

Fun Fact: The world’s first successful parachute jump was by André-Jacques Garnerin where he descended from a balloon and landed in Parc Monceau in 1797. A commemorative plaque was installed in 1997, celebrating 200 years since the first descent.

As our unplanned adventure continues and our view from the beautiful wrought iron gates lead us to the next stop. Standing proudly at the western end of Champs-Élysées is the Arc de Triompe. Located at Place Charles de Gaulle, the Arc is at the centre of one of the busiest traffic circles in the country, a star shaped junction where 12 Parisian avenues meet.  Commissioned by Napolean Bonaparte construction began in 1806 and took almost 30 years to complete. The monument was built as a symbolic reminder of the country’s military sacrifice in the French Revolution and Napoleonic War to commemorate those who fought and dies and a reminder of the victories. At the base is The Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, lit in 1923 and it has remained an eternal flame to this day. If you purchase a ticket, you can make the 282 stair climb up the gorgeous spiral staircase to the top, but we had more to explore so decided to push on with our walk.

Avenue des Champs- Élysées is one of the most iconic and famous streets in the world where all the high end shops are found. We could have walked all the way down to Tuileries Garden and the Louvre, but we decided to take a change in direction. We strutted our way down Champs- Élysées until we took a right at Av George V. We came across the American Cathedral of Holy Trinity, the first Episcopal church established outside the US and one of the first English speaking churches in Paris. The Gothic Revival construction began in 1881 and is easy to recognize with its 85 metre tall spire, one of the tallest in Paris.

A little further along and we were at Pont de l’Alma, a bridge that crosses the Seine, where there is a life-size replica of the torch held by the Statue of Liberty. Today the Flamme de la Liberté is an unofficial memorial and shrine to Lady Diana who died in 1997 in the Pont de l’Alma tunnel below. I couldn’t help but think as I stood there that the Eiffel Tower would have been the last thing Diana saw before entering the tunnel where she died. This area is today known as Place Diana and many incorrectly associate the 3.5 metre flame shaped monument to the song Candle in the Wind sung by Elton John at Diana’s funeral.

Across on the left bank in the 7th just a few meters from Eiffel Tower and we came across a lush green setting and contemporary architecture. Musée du quai Branly Jacques Chirac, a museum that features indigenous art from Africa, Asia, Oceania and the Americas. 15,000 plants from 150 species throughout the world hang from the façade of the building creating an astonishing living tapestry. Inspired by nature this impressive surface is 800 square meters of vertical garden of ferns, fuscias, irises, willows and more.

Finally we are but a few steps away from the reason we crossed the Seine today. To visit the Eiffel Tower. The Iron Lady, as she is known, was constructed for the 1889 World Fair to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the French Revolution. She is not only a cultural icon, but easily the most recognizable structure in the world. At 330 metres tall, its base measures 125 metres on each side. Listed by UNESCO as one of the seven wonders of the world, I don’t think there is a person in the world who has not savoured the moment they first saw this incredible structure. And words can’t describe the magical experience of that moment the lights come on. It will take your breath away, and make you feel giddy like a child. Decorated with over 20,000 lights, she is a stunning spectacle, and the illumination gives a whole new dimension to the sheer magnificence of the monument. For a truly unforgettable experience, the must-see destination will capture your heart and leave you with lifetime memories.

Memories made, it’s now time to return to our base in Montmartre and get ready for some dinner. Staying local to the Blanche-Pigalle district, we decide on Le Sanglier Bleu on Boulevard de Clichy, a stone’s throw from Moulin Rouge. Today offering quality cuisine, in the 50’s was a shady bar frequented by colourful clientele from artists, politicians, cops and night owls. This gem of a restaurant opens for lunch or dinner and consistently rates well across the foodie platforms with its traditional, contemporary menu. Despite its modest interior, the food is delicious and the service very attentive and friendly. Offering delicious French fare like onion soup, frogs legs, escargot, beef tartare and white asparagus, duck foie gras, and scallop carpaccio, what could be more French than drinking a glass of Sancerre, eating beautiful food and people watching? The desserts are worth the extra calories so make sure you leave room.

So there you have it. A whole day where we let our footsteps guide us and allowed the spirit of aimless wander to see some of the big sights. We also had fun discovering some of the small, serendipitous encounters that many tourists never see. Some were off the beaten path, so we took our time strolling the uphill streets of Montmartre, enjoying its blend of history, art, and culture. We experienced the charm of this beautiful city that made us feel comfortable and safe enough to put away our map and find our own authentic experience. It is worth mentioning that one of the best ways to travel around Paris is on foot, so be sure to pack your comfiest walking shoes. For these wandering souls, Montmartre continues to beckon, inviting us to explore its enchanting charms, and once again enjoy a flaky croissant.

Montmartre is a neighbourhood that captures the hearts of many and is a great place to embark on aimless wander, discovering the hidden charms. It is one of my favourite places in Europe.

Is Montmartre on your travel bucket list?

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