The ‘Peace City’ of Hiroshima

This year will mark 75 years since the atomic bomb decimated Hiroshima, a devastation it will forever be associated with and something that must never, ever happen again. This one day, this moment in time is the one biggest event in the 20th century’s history.

Hiroshima has a very sad history as it was the first Japanese city completely annihilated by the first atomic bomb ever to be used in the history of humankind. The city is known around the world for its tragic past and inspiring rebirth.

Yet this city is not bitter or spiteful about its past, instead promoting an awareness of peace and understanding.

The first place we arrived at was the Atomic Bomb Dome, the building closest to “Ground Zero” and the epicentre of the devastation. All that remains is the twisted skeleton of the building that today stands as a symbol of the grotesque horror of atomic war and leaves a clear and powerful message of the importance of peace and the devastation of war. The Genbaku Dome is currently preserved as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and will be preserved forever as a stark and sobering reminder for future generations. This building says it all, “no more Hiroshimas”.

Stretching across the point where the Ōta River and the Motoyasu River branch off, it is one of the bridges that connect the Atomic Bomb Dome to the Peace Park.

The Peace Park is quite large and there is a nearby Peace Museum to learn about the horrendous history. The Peace Park has the clock tower, a peace bell, the children’s memorial and the flame of peace.

Hiroshima is probably the most well-known city in Japan, but for all the wrong reasons. Sadly, this city was totally destroyed, and millions of people were killed.

At 8.15am on 6^th August 1945 the US bomber Enola Gay dropped the first atomic bomb ever used in warfare named “Little Boy” over Japan. The blast and heat from the bomb obliterated Hiroshima instantly, only a few buildings remained somewhat intact. In an instant 70,000 people were killed. There were some survivors further away, but many died over the next few days and weeks due to the radiation. Tens of thousands more succumbed to burns, radiation and disease in the following months. A total of 200,000 lives were claimed by the explosion of that single bomb.

First established in the 16^th century, it took until WWII for Hiroshima to become famous. It was towards the end of WWII and despite Germany and Italy surrendering, the Japanese Empire refused to accept defeat. On August 9^th of the same year Nagasaki was the target of the second atomic bomb. WWII finally came to an end August 15^th when Japan’s Emperor Hirohito announced their unconditional surrender in a radio address. On 2^nd September the surrender was formally signed, closing the hostilities of World War II. Japan took responsibility and despite being perplexed by the atrocities, didn’t move the blame to others.

I found our visit so emotional, a terrible, lingering reminder of the horror of the bombing. So much so, it has taken me months to write about our experience as I just found it too difficult. I still feel such strong emotions and find it incredibly heartbreaking to put into words.

But I want to stress, in Hiroshima the focus is on promoting peace, not on blame. Emerging from the ashes, the park serves as a reminder of the effects of nuclear war and is all about educating people about the importance of striving for peace, not division.

The Children’s Peace Monument stands in memory of all the children who lost their lives. Of all the monuments in Hiroshima Memorial Park, the Children’s Peace Monument is the one that touches me the most as it is heart wrenching to think that so many innocent children were victims of war. The statue honours a courageous girl named Sadako Sasaki who developed leukemia after the bombing. She set herself a task of folding one thousand orizuru, or paper cranes, the symbol of longevity and peace, but sadly she passed away before achieving her goal.

Her classmates finish her challenge and even today, it is humbling to see children from around the world still fold paper cranes and send them to commemorate Sakado. Her determination and memory of every child who died is forever immortalised in this beautifully crafted monument.

The bell in the center of the monument is in the shape of a gold paper crane. The paper crane is the most classic Japanese origami and represents the Japanese red-crowned crane that is believed to have used its wings to carry the soul up to paradise. They are called Senbazuru when 1,000 paper cranes are strung together.

The paper crane is the most classic Japanese origami and represents the Japanese red-crowned crane that is believed to have used its wings to carry the soul up to paradise. They are called Senbazuru when 1,000 paper cranes are strung together.

 

Orizuru are a symbol used as table decoration in restaurants and ceiling decorations throughout Japan. They would have to be one of the most popular souvenirs. We also found one hotel left us a small paper crane each day on our bed with our pyjamas.

Numerous monuments throughout the Peace Memorial Park pay homage to the victims who perished on that tragic day. It goes without saying it was extremely humbling to read about how the city and the lives of the people changed in an instant. What was once a bustling commercial and business district was instantly reduced to rubble but now along with the memorials are manicured paths and museums ensuring this event will never be forgotten. The way the park was designed encourages people to stop and reflect.

Walking through the park we came across the Cenotaph which contains the known names of everyone who died in the bombing and frames the eternal flame. Standing looking through the arch gazing across the pool of remembrance gives a feeling of calm, of hope, and a good dose of sadness. This is a place for reflection and far more contemplative than I thought it would be. This flame first lit in 1964 will be kept burning until all nuclear bombs are eradicated. I truly hope it will be in my time and I get to see the day the peace flame can be distinguished, and world is at peace.

The cenotaph is a simple concrete arch covering a stone casket that contains the names of all known people who perished due to the bombing. From the cenotaph you can see directly over the Flame of Peace to the haunting ruins of the A Bomb Dome.

Nearby is the Atomic Bomb is Memorial Mound, the final resting place for the remains of 70,000 unidentified people. The crypt beneath the mound contains the ashes of victims who burned beyond recognition. Now descendants of those who had missing family come here to pray for the souls of their ancestors. A visit here rams home why atomic weapons should never be used again.

The Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum was opened in 1955 and closed its doors in 2017 for renovations. On 25 April 2019, after two years of renovation, it was reopened in time for the 10 day Golden Week holiday which occurred that year.  The museum is open 8.30 – 18.00 most of the year, except December to February is only open until 17.00 In August it remains open until 19.00 and admission is 200 yen.

The Peace Bell is also nearby. This cast bell has a world map without borders on the surface to symbolize a unified world. People are welcome to strike the bell and make a prayer for world peace when they do so.

Memorial Tower is a monument dedicated to the 6,300 mobilized students who died in the bombing. They were working in various industries in Hiroshima as part of the Student Labor Service Act where middle and higher grade students worked in munitions factories, building demolition or creating fire breaks. After the bombing only the known, named were enshrined in Yasukuni Shrine so bereaved families donated funds to build a memorial tower.

I thought a visit to Hiroshima would be incomplete without paying a visit to The Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum that commemorates the horror of the bombing and the city that stood prior to the event. The museum has exhibits to give an insight into the tumultuous destruction that occurred with the bombing and its aftermath. But a visit to the Peace Memorial Museum is not for the faint hearted, it is intense, confronting and mentally devastating.

I knew it would be quite solemn but was not prepared for the emotional experience. I expected the experience to be more cathartic, but this event is the biggest man-made atrocity in any single day. The exhibits are very graphic, and I found them very disturbing. This is where we really learned the impact of the bombing, from the events leading up to it and after the bombing, in excruciating detail. I knew the severity of the bombings but was not prepared for just how graphic the displays would be.

There were massive photos showing the aftermath, people injured, burned and seriously affected from the radiation. Raw photos openly depicting women and children walking through the rubble, peeling skin hanging from their limbs, parching throats and jumping into the river for relief. My reaction to seeing the atrocities of war was not something I had predicted. I found it extremely morbid and depressing. As soon as I entered the museum my eyes well with tears, shortly they were rolling down my cheeks. Within no time I was fully crying, and soon was frantically rushing to find the exit. I could not stay in there any longer. And I think we were only about a quarter of our way into the exhibits. Yes, it has horrific history, but I felt assaulted by the horror and much preferred just sitting in the park, looking at the remains of the dome, left to imagine for myself. But don’t let my raw emotions deter you from visiting this very moving exhibition.

Looking at all the shrines, memorials, water features and beautiful gardens you could easily spend half a day wandering around this tranquil place. Overall the Peace Memorial Park serves as a symbol of peace for the world and is a wonderfully moving and evocative place to just wander around and absorb its significance. The simple, beautifully kept park with the cenotaph and flame of peace at its centre is moving honest and heartfelt and portrays a clear sense of the desire for peace. The world might just be a better place if everyone could experience the range of emotions here. There is no mention of war, there is no blame. This place teaches us why there is no place for nuclear weapons.

After our brief, emotional visit to the Peace Memorial Museum we went downstairs, I composed myself and we purchased three porcelain cranes. They will be my memory of a visit to a place that despite spending time there, I cannot imagine what the people of Hiroshima really went through back on that day.

But I guess this event was truly so horrific that perhaps nobody really should ever be able to understand.

This city has more to offer than its dark past and after the sombre time visiting the Peace Memorial Museum and trying to grapple with history I needed to unwind.

Not directly associated with the atomic bombing, the Red Bird Monument is dedicated to Miekichi Suzuki, a novelist who provided the inspiration for the first songs and fairy tales for children in japan. He suggested children learn by observation and experience and created a magazine called Akai Tori, The Red Bird. Children’s creativity was his basis for guiding teachers how to write composition and free verse. He also introduced children’s stories from overseas and so became known as the “Father of Children’s Literature”. The inscription on the monument serves as a symbol of Hiroshima’s recovery and hope for world peace and reads, “I will forever dream, simply as I did in my boyhood, and thereafter suffer on little. Miekichi.”

You can appreciate the modernity in Hiroshima. It is lively, has fantastic cuisine and is a wonderful city to visit. It is also full of friendly people. Despite the dark past of Hiroshima, the people are gentle and open and have bounced back with grace and courage and rebuilt their city. Hiroshima has been rebuilt with dignity, respect and beauty.

Yes, it is true, you can’t come to Hiroshima and not visit the Peace Park. In hindsight the park understates the insanity and madness of war resulting in the deaths of thousands of innocent people. A visit to the park is a time to reflect, to be thankful and to ignite hope to humanity of a world free from nuclear warfare. A visit gives us time to contemplate why this must never happen again.

Today Hiroshima is a flourishing city that shows a balance between heritage and progress. Hiroshima’s modern cosmopolitan and commercial success buzzes, but their past will never be forgotten. Schoolchildren are frequently seen taking excursions to learn the history and respect and appreciate the future. Seeing the children assembled is a humbling realisation of the profound and lasting effects the event had on the entire nation.

Hiroshima’s people bounced back and within 30 years, this remarkable city has doubled its pre-war population. Hiroshima is today regarded as the world’s “peace capital” and has many lush, landscaped gardens to reflect on its past.

Humans destroyed Hiroshima, but humans also rebuilt it.

The city is easy to get about on foot or using the “Hiroden” or streetcars. They are a novelty to ride and payment is made as you get off, not at the commencement of your trip.

One thing I enjoyed as I made my way around the city is the brightly decorated manhole covers.

Hiroshima Orizuru Tower offers amazing views, there is a rooftop observation deck on the 13^th floor where you can see across to Miyajima Island and offers a different view of the A Bomb Done. The observation deck is open, allowing the freedom to feel the wind and see unobscured panoramic views. The rooftop can be reached by elevator or via a spiral walkway up to the top. The journey down has the option off a trip on a huge slide which would be great fun. Discount on entry is given when showing a JR pass. Inside there is an Orizuru wall where you can place paper cranes that have been made as a gesture of your thoughts and prayers for peace.

We came across this lovely fountain in Central Park, a relaxing park with beautiful trees.

Yuhua Garden is a lovely garden constructed to celebrate the official friendship between Hiroshima and Chongqing in Sichuan Provinice, China. This walled garden has keyhole style gates, called moongates, courtyards, walkways and sloping roofed gazebos and pavilions built around a central lake. The garden is designed to allow visitors to meanders through and enjoy in any season.

Hiroshima Castle had to be rebuilt following its destruction by the atomic bomb. Only the foundation stones remain. But this isn’t about the bombing, it’s a chance to catch a glimpse into history with four floors of exhibits and a beautiful view from the top. The exhibits include ancient artifacts, samurai swords and you can also try on samurai outfits. The truly grand and magnificent castle has fascinating architecture and took 10 years to rebuild. The rebuild preserved the sense of time and history with the same stone walls and waterways surrounding the monument. There is a minimal fee to enter. To get to the castle it is a 15 minute walk from the station.

During our time in Hiroshima we chose to stay at the Sheraton Grand Hiroshima Hotel, a spacious four-star hotel, for its convenient location and large rooms.

The hotel is right next door to the JR Hiroshima Station. This was very convenient as we were arriving by high speed bullet train, known as Shinkansen using our JR Pass. The connection is seamless with a covered walkway taking us direct from the station to the hotel and it is a short streetcar ride to downtown Hiroshima. We would recommend this hotel to anyone looking for comfort, luxury and convenience.

We caught the Hiroshima Sightseeing Loop Bus to the A Dome, but from Hiroshima Station tram 2 or 6 can be taken to stop Genbaku-Domu Mae and takes 15 minutes.

The Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum is open 8.30 – 18.00 most of the year, except December to February is only open until 17.00 In August it remains open until 19.00 and admission is 200 yen.

Have you been to Hiroshima? Would you plan to visit the Peace Memorial Museum?

What are you waiting for? Share this post or leave a comment below. If you like this post and want to read more like this why not subscribe to our Newsletter? We won’t spam you or share your personal details. If you’re not doing so already, please follow us on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram or click the Mix, Flipboard or other social media buttons below to share this post with others who might enjoy reading it. If you want to come back to this post again, pin the photo below using the red Pinterest button.

The authors travelled courtesy of Jetstar Australia

* This post contains affiliate links. When you make a purchase using one of the affiliate links we get paid a small commission at no extra cost to you.